We woke up in a slow, sunny, sleepy Sovana.
It seemed to be on some movie set, it was so perfectly restored, clean, quiet and beautiful.
(* We eat with hands. Don’t be in a hurry. – Forget the sandwich, sit and enjoy a platter of local ham and cheese and a glass of good wine.)
Sovana is a place where you can really take a break and breath. We had a slow breakfast in a bar (don’t expect anything fancy, still you’ll find a proper cornetto and cappuccino), then we walked the main road towards the Duomo di San Pietro e Paolo discovering small artesan shops along the way that truly worth a stop.
Not just objects in tufo, the local stone, but also amazing vintage shops and a little wood crafter that makes beautiful objects… he asked me not to tell what: he wants it to be a surprise and I am sure it will be, especially if you have kids.
If you like some culture I recommend the Duomo. A simple yet charming church with a solemn atmosphere. It spreads around a feeling of peacefulness which is every day harder to find.
Around Sovana there are many Necropoli Etrusche (Etruscan Tumbs). Although they were built in tufo, which is a very perishable stone, they were still well preserved and fascinating like the Tomba Ildebranda and the Tomba della Sirena.
What I liked the most, anyway, were the narrow corridors carved into the stone that leads from one tumb to another.
We stopped for a lunch in the nearby Sorano, even smaller but more lively, with the feel of a town rather than a cinema set. Towns around Pitigliano are all alike but deserve a stop since each one has its own personality.
For less than 10 euros each, we tasted amazing local food at Locanda dell’Arco.
Tagliatelle al ragù, vegetables, ham and melon and some very good Morellino di Scansano wine (1 euro per glass!).
The time came to have a longer stop to get some proper relax before September. We chose the beautiful Agriturismo Poggio al Tufo, near Pitigliano. Surrounded by wineyards and olive trees, it is a place where you can only hear the sounds of nature and smell the scent of plants, wind and earth.
Sunset over the hills: time for some ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) and a breathtaking view. Perfect, especially when followed by Miss Ornella, the owner, who is an excellent chef – I still dream about her ‘Buglione di Cinghiale’ – lean wild boar stew…
Here our view in the morning, just opening the window…
And before leaving we enjoyed the pool.
Our weekend came to end. Our Maremma itinerary was just amazing, full of history, relax, flavours. I strongly recommend it!
Here some address from this post:
SOVANA
All info about the city HERE.
Sleep
Hotel Scilla – small and typical with a lovely atmosphere.
Eat
Agrutirismo San Giacomo and Golosofia.
SORANO
Eat
La locanda dell’Arco – easy, good and cheap.
AGRITURISMO
Poggio al Tufo, Pitigliano – highly recommended!
Here the first part of the weekend.
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